Bookcase Doors: Part 2

Our basement library is filled with storage, books, and games for the entire family to use, and we always seem to be stretched right to the edge on available space.  So, when I had the opportunity to build two more narrow bookcases for the HVAC door, I was excited to get that done!

While most of the bookcases in here are from Ikea, I knew I was out of luck with matching the perfect sizes for this part of the project.  So, I set out to build my own, but since these also have to be doors… I knew it wouldn’t be a typical pair of bookcases.

Check out the first part of this build here.

After I had the framing already in place, I knew exactly how large the bookcase cavity is for both of these to fit.  So, I had to form fit these to that space, but also account for the door swing for each of the cases.

I started with seeing the clearances needed for the hardware I chose.  Since I used concealed hardware, I would need a little bit on each side of the bookcase to have space to allow the doors to swing instead of just accommodating the thickness of the doors where the doors meet in the middle.

I started with the math for the hinge side, knowing the whole door opening would be 48”, that left me 24” for each door since there is no center support.  I modified the measurements from the instructions to match my bookshelves, and found that these included just under 1/2” clearance on the hinge side of the bookshelf.

Then I had to make sure the bookcases wouldn’t bind together in the middle.  This was really just using algebra knowing the depth of the bookcases was 6", and they'd have a 24" opening: 

a² + b² = c²
6² + b² = 24²
36 + b² = 576
576 - 36 = b²
23.23 = b

Just to be on the safe side, I rounded down and made the shelves 23” wide.  That gives me 1/2" clearance on both sides, and I am able to open each door one at a time or simultaneously.  The height of the bookshelves was much easier.  I measured the height of the opening and just subtracted the thickness of the hardware: 1 1/2”.

Building the Cases

Once I had the height of the bookcases, I started by cutting the backs of the cases out of 1/2” plywood.  This gives the bookshelves additional strength and helps prevent sagging.  I ripped each to the right width, then followed up with squaring the top and bottom to the correct height.

Then, I cut the sides of the bookcase to the total length of the bookcase in this case, 62 1/4”.  I marked on each where I wanted to attach the shelves, knowing I wanted the same number of shelves as I had on the other cases already installed.  I then cut the shelves, making sure to subtract from the thickness of the sides from the width of the top and bottom.  23” - (2 x 0.75) = 23 - 1.5 = 21.5”.

Installing the Shelves

Because I wanted the shelves to partially line up with the adjacent cases, I waited to install the shelves until after I got the bookcases installed (more on that in Part 3).  I started with one of the two that I knew needed to align, and drew on the side where the middle of the shelf should be.  Then I used a level to carry that line all the way around the bookcase.

To get the shelves in, I predrilled holes in the sides and back and screwed the shelves in place.  They’ll be fixed shelves, but with the doors I knew additional lateral pieces can help prevent sagging.  I also would hate for these to wiggle when we open the doors.  I repeated this step all the way around on all eight shelves, giving me great bookcases with the perfect depth for smaller books.